Smelly Field Trip
Earlier this week I found myself in midtown Manhattan and was near Bloomingdales - it was before noon on a Monday, which is prime time to casually take my time to sniff before the store gets busy and I was able to smell some fragrances I’ve had on my Pinterest list. Before I get into what fragrances made an impression on my visit, let’s take a beat to review an important element of a fragrance structure: accords.
In a previous post, I talked about fragrance notes. A fragrance accord is a combination of notes that work in unison to create a specific fragrance profile. Fragrances are like a song composition with a custom blend of notes and accords that can take perfume from simplistic to multifaceted, depending on what the perfumer hopes to achieve.
There are four main classic accords: Chypre, Cologne, Fougere, and Amber
Example % breakdown of a Chypre Accord:
Top 25%: Bergamot, Orange
Heart 25%: Rose, Hedione, Jasmine
Base 50%: Oakmoss, Musk, Wood
Famous Chypre Fragrance: Chanel Chance
Penhaligon’s
When I first entered the fragrance department of Bloomingdale’s, I was approached by an associate to smell a line of fragrances called Penhaligon’s. I was curious because I hadn’t smelled these fragrances before and the display was gorgeous with pretty bottles to match! I was impressed with the full line - many fragrances were well-proportioned and I would consider buying them. I wish I could buy more full bottles of fragrance, however, unless I had a fragrance fridge/cabinet to store them…yes there is such a thing, I tend to buy the smallest version possible. Their scent library set is a great way to test the full line-up.
Take Penhaligon’s fragrance profiling quiz: here
Solaris: This fragrance was my favorite of the brand. Mostly, I’m in full summer mode, and the scent is light. Ylang-Ylang is one of my favorite notes, so usually, when a fragrance has it, I’ll enjoy it. Also, Solaris won the Harper's Bazaar Best of Beauty Award in 2023.
Top: Blackcurrant, Neroli, Lemon
Heart: Ylang-Ylang, Jasmine, Tiare Flower
Base: Cedarwood, Sandalwood, Vanilla
Maison Margiela
Again, another line of fragrances I hadn’t smelled in its entirety and there were a few stand-out perfumes. Honorable mentions: Sailing Day and Lazy Sunday Morning
Replica - From The Garden: When I first smelled the perfume, the “Tomato Leaf Accord”, was noticeable in the fragrance and provided a crisp herbaceousness to the structure. Also, I love that the website copy mentions the various accords used throughout the fragrance pyramid description!
Top: Green Mandarin, Grapefruit, Blackcurrant Accord
Heart: Tomato Leaf Accord, Geranium Bourbon Heart Madagascar, Rose Accord
Base: Patchouli Indonesia, Cristal Moss, White Musks
Dior
This Instagram Reel caught my attention because I love to see what perfumers do with men’s fragrances to make them stand out. In my opinion, men’s fragrances smell similar and tend to blend into one another. I smelled most of the fragrances mentioned in the Reel - I still need to smell the Jean Paul Gautier - Ultra Male from his quote: “Women tell me they hate me because I smell so good" LOL - I’m intrigued!! Sauvage from Dior was my favorite from his list!! In-store, the honorable mention goes to this summertime fragrance: Dior Homme
Sauvage Elixir: The Eau de Parfum and Parfum smell great, however, the Elixir is exceptional! This modern fragrance is opulent but with a hint of classical structure. The notes make it versatile and would smell fantastic on almost anyone!
Top: Nutmeg, Cinnamon, Cardamom, Grapefruit
Heart: Lavender
Base: Licorice, Sandalwood, Amber, Patchouli, Haitian Vetiver
In closing, play and test fragrances you're curious about on your skin. Many brands offer trial/travel sizes to provide the perfect opportunity to see if the fragrance suits your fancy! There is an oversaturation of fragrances on the market and to smell everything can be overwhelming. Going to a department store, Sephora or Ulta will allow you to try various fragrances in one setting. Give yourself time and don’t feel pressured to buy that day - once the fragrance initiates dry down, it will change and adapt to your skin. You’ll want to experience the full olfactory pyramid of the fragrance, so enjoy the fragrance ride. Stay smelly out there ;)